Formex · Essence

Essence ThirtyNine

Premium $1,300+

The Formex Essence ThirtyNine is a Swiss-made 39 mm sports-dress automatic featuring a COSC-certified Sellita SW200-1 movement and Formex's patented four-spring Case Suspension System, sold direct-to-consumer. Its individually CNC-machined dial and sapphire-front-and-back construction deliver finishing quality that consistently surprises at its price point.

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39mm

Case

100m

Water res.

10mm

Thick

45mm

Lug-to-lug

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Overview

Brand Formex
Reference 0333.1.6621.722
Collection Essence
Category Sports
Released 2020
Price guide Premium · $1,300+

Full specification

Specs

Case & dial

Diameter 39 mm
Lug-to-lug 45 mm
Thickness 10 mm
Lug width 20 mm
Water resistance 100 m
Crystal sapphire
Case material stainless steel
Bezel fixed
Case back exhibition

Movement & furniture

Type Automatic
Caliber Sellita SW200-1 →
Functions Date
Power reserve 41 h
Jewels 26
Certification COSC chronometer
Lume BGW9 Super-LumiNova
Strap / bracelet stainless steel bracelet or leather strap (quick-release)

Bottom line

A genuinely well-finished Swiss-made automatic that earns its COSC badge in practice and punches well above its price on dial craft and comfort — just know that the curved, proprietary lug system will keep you on Formex's own strap ecosystem.

Highlights

  • COSC-certified Sellita SW200-1
  • Patented four-spring Case Suspension System
  • Sapphire crystal front & back with AR coating
  • Individually CNC-machined dial texture
  • Tool-free quick-release strap system

Who it's for

Buyers with 6.25–7.25 inch wrists who want a versatile Swiss-made automatic that works from office to weekend without a bezel or dial reading as overtly sporty. The direct-to-consumer model makes COSC accuracy, sapphire caseback, and elaborate dial finishing accessible well under €1,650 / ~$1,850 USD — an appealing step-up for collectors moving past entry-level micro-brands.

Who should skip it

Skip it if you need a screw-down crown for swimming or diving, require a standard 20 mm lug system for aftermarket straps, or prefer a bezel without the four visible suspension-bolt heads.

Before you buy

  • Confirm exact reference: Black, Blue, Green, Dégradé, and stone-dial variants all share the Essence ThirtyNine name but carry different reference numbers
  • Essence ThirtyNine straps use curved spring bars and Formex's quick-release system; verify aftermarket 20 mm strap compatibility before buying
  • No screw-down crown — 100 m rating covers swimming but is not dive-rated
  • Several stone-dial special editions (Malachite, Nacre, Space Glacier, Gamaret) are periodically out of stock or discontinued; check current availability before ordering

FAQ

Is the Essence ThirtyNine automatic or quartz?

The Essence ThirtyNine is automatic. The Sellita SW200-1 winds itself from the motion of your wrist, so it needs no battery. A full wind holds roughly 41 hours, so it keeps running overnight off the wrist; left longer it stops and restarts once you wear or hand-wind it.

What movement does the Essence ThirtyNine use?

The Essence ThirtyNine is powered by the Sellita SW200-1 from Sellita, an automatic caliber with 26 jewels, a 41-hour power reserve, and a 28,800 bph beat rate. Being automatic, it winds from the motion of your wrist and needs no battery.

Does the Essence ThirtyNine have a date?

Yes — the Essence ThirtyNine has a date display on the dial. The date advances automatically as the movement runs, so the current day of the month is always visible at a glance, and you can set it from the crown after the watch has been left to stop.

How water resistant is the Essence ThirtyNine?

The Essence ThirtyNine is rated to 100 m. That covers swimming and snorkelling, though hot water and direct high-pressure water are best avoided, and it is not intended for scuba diving. Whatever the rating, avoid operating the crown or pushers underwater, and have the gaskets checked periodically to keep it reliable.

How big does the Essence ThirtyNine wear?

At 39 mm across with a 45 mm lug-to-lug and 10 mm thick, the Essence ThirtyNine wears as a versatile mid-size watch. Lug-to-lug is the measurement that really decides fit, since it sets how far the case spans the wrist — 45 mm suits most wrists, and smaller wrists especially should check that figure.

How does Formex's patented Case Suspension System actually work?

Four small springs are integrated between the inner movement container and the outer case shell. They absorb impact shocks to protect the movement and allow the case to flex very slightly against the bezel ring in response to wrist movement — providing both shock resistance and a subtle comfort advantage over a rigidly assembled case.

Is COSC certification on a Sellita movement worth paying for here?

COSC certification guarantees genuine chronometer-level regulation, and Formex specifies a Chronometer grade SW200-1 with a Glucydur balance and custom decoration, which represents real investment in the movement beyond the base spec.

How does the ThirtyNine compare to the original 43 mm Essence?

The ThirtyNine launched in 2020 by popular demand and shares the same movement, suspension architecture, dial construction, and finishing philosophy as the 43 mm original — the key differences are the case diameter (39 vs 43 mm), lug-to-lug (45 vs ~49 mm), and a slightly slimmer profile, making it a better fit for smaller wrists and more formal contexts.

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