Formex · Essence

Essence ThirtyNine

Premium $1,300+

The Formex Essence ThirtyNine is a Swiss-made 39 mm sports-dress automatic featuring a COSC-certified Sellita SW200-1 movement and Formex's patented four-spring Case Suspension System, sold direct-to-consumer. Its individually CNC-machined dial and sapphire-front-and-back construction deliver finishing quality that consistently surprises at its price point.

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39mm

Case

100m

Water res.

10mm

Thick

45mm

Lug-to-lug

Overview

Brand	Formex
Reference	0333.1.6621.722
Collection	Essence
Category	Sports
Released	2020
Price guide	Premium · $1,300+

Full specification

Specs

Case & dial

Diameter	39 mm
Lug-to-lug	45 mm
Thickness	10 mm
Lug width	20 mm
Water resistance	100 m
Crystal	sapphire
Case material	stainless steel
Bezel	fixed
Case back	exhibition

Movement & furniture

Type	Automatic
Caliber	Sellita SW200-1 →
Functions	Date
Power reserve	38 h
Jewels	26
Certification	COSC chronometer
Lume	BGW9 Super-LumiNova
Strap / bracelet	stainless steel bracelet or leather strap (quick-release)

On the wrist

Slide the ThirtyNine onto your wrist and the first surprise is how flat it sits — 10 mm is genuinely slender for a 39 mm automatic, and Formex's suspension system (four springs between inner and outer case shells) lets the watch settle against the wrist with a faint give rather than sitting stiff. You don't consciously notice the mechanism, but the watch feels more comfortable than its spec alone explains.

The dial is the centrepiece: a vertically brushed base, with horizontal grooves CNC-machined one by one across the surface, and applied polished indices layered on top. In moving light the result is alive — the black reads closer to dark anthracite than flat ink, and the gradient versions shift tone across the dial in a way that rivals watches at double the price. The date window sits small at 6 o'clock, colour-matched and visually clean, but borderline fiddly to read at a glance. The four small bolt heads of the suspension system visible on the bezel are the one aesthetic that divides opinion — functional innovation made visible, or a busy detail on an otherwise clean case. At 45 mm lug-to-lug it wears perfectly on 6.25–7.0 inch wrists; larger wrists will find it trim without disappearing.

Bottom line

A genuinely well-finished Swiss-made automatic that earns its COSC badge in practice and punches well above its price on dial craft and comfort — just know that the curved, proprietary lug system will keep you on Formex's own strap ecosystem.

Highlights

COSC-certified Sellita SW200-1
Patented four-spring Case Suspension System
Sapphire crystal front & back with AR coating
Individually CNC-machined dial texture
Tool-free quick-release strap system

Who it's for

Buyers with 6.25–7.25 inch wrists who want a versatile Swiss-made automatic that works from office to weekend without a bezel or dial reading as overtly sporty. The direct-to-consumer model makes COSC accuracy, sapphire caseback, and elaborate dial finishing accessible well under €1,650 / ~$1,850 USD — an appealing step-up for collectors moving past entry-level micro-brands.

Who should skip it

Skip it if you need a screw-down crown for swimming or diving, require a standard 20 mm lug system for aftermarket straps, or prefer a bezel without the four visible suspension-bolt heads.

Before you buy

Confirm exact reference: Black, Blue, Green, Dégradé, and stone-dial variants all share the Essence ThirtyNine name but carry different reference numbers
Curved lugs accept only Formex's proprietary quick-release bars — standard aftermarket straps require adapters or custom fitting
No screw-down crown — 100 m rating covers swimming but is not dive-rated
Several stone-dial special editions (Malachite, Nacre, Space Glacier, Gamaret) are periodically out of stock or discontinued; check current availability before ordering

FAQ

Is the Essence ThirtyNine automatic or quartz?

It runs a automatic movement.

What movement does the Essence ThirtyNine use?

The Sellita SW200-1 (Sellita).

Does the Essence ThirtyNine have a date?

Yes.

How water resistant is the Essence ThirtyNine?

It is rated to 100 m.

How big does the Essence ThirtyNine wear?

39 mm wide with a 45 mm lug-to-lug.

How does Formex's patented Case Suspension System actually work?

Four small springs are integrated between the inner movement container and the outer case shell. They absorb impact shocks to protect the movement and allow the case to flex very slightly against the bezel ring in response to wrist movement — providing both shock resistance and a subtle comfort advantage over a rigidly assembled case.

Is COSC certification on a Sellita movement worth paying for here?

Independent reviewers have recorded averages of +1 sec/day or better on tested examples, consistent with genuine COSC-level regulation. Formex specifies a Chronometer grade SW200-1 with a Glucydur balance and custom decoration, which represents real investment in the movement beyond the base spec.

How does the ThirtyNine compare to the original 43 mm Essence?

The ThirtyNine launched in 2020 by popular demand and shares the same movement, suspension architecture, dial construction, and finishing philosophy as the 43 mm original — the key differences are the case diameter (39 vs 43 mm), lug-to-lug (45 vs ~49 mm), and a slightly slimmer profile, making it a better fit for smaller wrists and more formal contexts.